We are so grateful to all our customers over the years and we have been hearing many questions lately about what is going on with our building. We want to level with you, so here's the deal:
1) We do not own our building.
2) Our building will be torn down and redeveloped in the next 2-5 years.
3) Our landlord has been awesome over the past 26 years.
4) We don't know where we will go.
We've been given a long lead time by our aforementioned awesome landlord, so we are checking out our options. Real estate in Portland has gone through the roof, but nearby areas aren't substantially better (we're looking at you, diamond-in-the-rough Milwaukee). We are working with some bankers and real estate folks to see what we can find.
We have a few options we're considering:
1) Our landlord will continue to own the property and offered us the ground floor in the new building. The trick here is the 1-2 years of demo/construction time, not to mention the ever worsening parking situation.
2) We are looking for a 15,000 - 20,000 sq ft building (we currently have 25,000 sq ft) somewhere not too far out and close to old houses (Portland? Milwaukee? Oregon City? Gresham?)
3) We are thinking about having a smaller inner city 'showroom' space and a bigger warehouse/industrial space farther out. This does mean two locations which brings up a bunch of other problems.
So, dear supporters and co-conspirators, we are telling it like it is so you know what's happening and in case anyone has an extra building laying around they'd like to share. When we know a little more about our plan, we will likely have some kind of kickstarter/gofundme/pleasegiveusmoney campaign to help with the costs. Until then, thank you endlessly for the continued care and support.
We answer a lot of calls here at Hippo with questions concerning Claw foot tubs, and they usually lead to more questions. So, here’s my little clawfoot tub primer of do’s and don’ts if you are considering upgrading to one of these irresistible beauties. They can that be picture perfect luxurious soak you’ve been dreaming about.
#1: While it’s not impossible to find feet for antique tubs, it may be impossible to find the exact four feet, or missing foot, that connects to your tubs unique bracket and profile. Each maker had their own unique casting. We estimate there are somewhere around 400 different castings. On some tubs, the back two feet are be a little taller for proper tilt for drainage. So, rule number one, buy your tub with all four of its feet. However, if you already bought a footless tub, all hope is not lost. The best way to find out if we have feet for your tub is to bring your tub in. We realize that's prohibitive for some folks so a good second option is to press some soft modeling clay over the entire surface of the leg mount and make a mold.
#2: Weather and harsh chemical cleaners are not your tubs best friend. Storing a tub outdoors in the elements is a bad idea, buying a tub sitting in someone’s yard an even worse idea. That beautiful pristine porcelain finish is thin and porous at a microscopic level. The harsh environment of rain and winter degrades the surface, and you may be left with stains that have permanently damaged its originally glossy appearance. Additionally the iron may be brittle from the extreme temperature changes and humidity.
#3: Once you have your dream tub, make sure it stays dreamy with proper care. Harsh chemicals can damage the porcelain and end up causing more harm than good. Here’s a great resource from Apartment Therapy on the care and cleaning of your antique tub or sink.
#4: If you need to restore your tub's surface, leave it to the professionals. Home kits often leave a less then stellar surface, that becomes even more problematic over time. The biggest key to a successful refinish is a totally sterile environment. Any dust or particles will keep the chemicals from bonding with your tub's surface. Be aware that if you buy a tub that has a failing re-finish, it will cost a little more to have it stripped and re-surfaced professionally, but well worth the money.
Those wonderful claw feet that we all fell in love with, can also be given a new lease on life in the hands of professionals. Remember there’s no shame in having a love affair with your well-worn tub either, with their numerous coats of paint on the outside, scratches, rusty feet and all. After all who’s perfect?
#5: Another thing to consider is the space your working with, I’ve seen many regrets over the years, from people who could have had a larger soaking tub, but went smaller. Sizes on tubs range from 54” all the way up to generally 6’. As a rule, we recommend you buy the biggest tub you can comfortably fit in your space, your aching bones will thank you!
#6: Let's talk about valve placement: there are few standards in plumbing, and tubs generally come a few different ways to fill with water. By far the most common style has the valve mounts to the inside surface of the tub with the drain directly below on one end of the tub. There are a few other unusual styles as well such as valve holes are in the of the rim or in the center of the tub. Most tubs have a mounting hole distance of 3 3\8ths. The valves we sell range from cool old antique tub fillers, to basic reproduction valves with a diverter, to fun valves with porcelain levers and a built in hand shower. So many options!
#7: Wanting to re-tile your bathroom? Thinking about adding some tub coasters? Make sure your plumbing drain and supply lines will fit the new height! Although needing to go shorter may add some time, ensure you include that in your schedule. If you'll need a longer drain or supply lines, definitely factor in replacement parts as part of your costs.
Are you ready to dive in now? We have many antique claw foot tubs in the store to choose from. Or maybe you just need to accessorize your little gem with some porcelain tub coasters, or an over the rim soap holder (or maybe two)? Let us know how to get your clawfoot tub dreams up and running!
There’s nothing quite like a chandelier. Their romantic elegance and wide array of designs provide endless possibilities for home décor.
As the summer winds down and the outside lights sheds a golden hue why not try a chandelier outdoors for those late-summer dinner parties, gatherings and events?
Go classic with a glass armed design. This look is perfect for any covered patio:
Or for a rustic look, try a DIY pulley light fixture:
Don’t want to mess with wiring but want an eclectic look for your outdoor space? A fresh coat of paint and a trip to the garden center turns these Williamsburg chandeliers into planters!
For a simple statement, try a glass globe shade candle holder (note: do not use real candles as they can explode the glass—flameless candles are best for these shades).
Of course, if an outdoor chandelier doesn’t work for your home, you can always go classic and add one inside for a traditional elegant statement piece like these many armed beauties that abound in our store:
Any way or where you hang it, a chandelier is certain to add a romantic and unique ambiance to your living space.
Located on SE 14th, snug between Burnside and Sandy, the Caldwell Funeral home stood elegantly from 1929 until 2017. Hippo had the privilege of salvaging some of the architectural gems from this incredible place. We were able to be one of the last few people to walk through the building. We would like to use this blog post to pay tribute to a gorgeous building with a long history in our city.
The building was stately:
Photos above credit: http://www.portlandchronicle.com/funeral-home-86-years-old-faces-demolition-190-units/
The inside however, was just stunning:
The images above are from the ground floor. Our first trip in, we were taken through the basement where all the mortuary work took place including an autopsy room and a cremation room. Unfortunately, when we came back with the camera, the entire floor was closed off for hazardous waste disposal so dear readers, we can only try to sketch the beautiful austerity of these rooms.
Most of the salvage we handled went directly to a large restaurant client but we did end up with this remarkable bronze fountain:
and we still have one of three steel gates:
We also nabbed a kitchen sink, iron driveway gates, and walnut inlayed light switch plates which have all sold before we had a chance to sit down and write about it.
Although it's a little sad, here is a final shot of the last day of such a grand old lady. It took an army to bring you down, you tough broad!
These days I find myself wanting to turn everything (and I mean everything) I see into a tiny plant container and/or a bud vase to hold flowers from my garden. My hobby of re-purposing anything vintage that looks like it could hold a tiny, adorable succulent has crossed the line into obsession and with the recent trend of entire terrarium stores popping up in PDX, it seems the general population shares my affinity for tiny plant culture.
These projects are so satisfying and here's why:
I could go on. Truly.*All the items I'm using are from our vast lighting department
Here's what you will need to create your tiny plant container and/or bud vase:
1) A small item with an opening. Like this for a bud vase:
Or this for a succulent/air plant container:
2) A small plate or flatter surface to attach the container part to. This can be optional or necessary depending on if the container part has 2 openings. But it provides a sturdy base and will allow you to use a wider variety of items.
(Note: this particular piece is part of our vintage lighting collection and does have a hole at the bottom. This can easily be covered up with some tape on the bottom and glue to fill the hole in.)
3) Glue--I recommend E6000 craft glue. You can use super glue but the E6000 is better and works on many different materials. You can find it at most craft supply stores.
Step 1: Glue the container part to the flat/plate part.
2) Wait for it to dry.
3) Fill it with adorable tiny plants.
End results: adorable and one of a kind!
The best part about this project is the shopping for the components. Maybe you have something at home that you've been saving but if not, it's a great excuse to get out to the local salvage store and explore the possibilities. And then you get to go plant shopping too! So get to it. go DIY something adorable and unique. Go re-purpose the heck out of that vintage hobnail milk glass thing you've been eyeing.
Picture Hanging with Moldings
With the explosion of inexpensive artwork during the mid-1900’s, picture hanging styles changed. Starting around the 1870’s, Victorians arranged wall decorations and table settings as “art units.” The dioramas, if you will, consisted of half-a-dozen framed chromos, family portraits, silhouettes, or hanging plates- arranged over a set of standing easels covered in more artwork. The easels were sometimes flanked by a table or a draped étagère, and filled with porcelain figures, tintypes, folding frames and other souvenirs.
No matter how humble the collection, “art units” gave homeowners the opportunity to display their prized items. This was also a convenient technique for compensating for poor lighting, as a group of frames and art objects could be illuminated by fewer light sources.
Hanging pictures in “art units” were typically randomly arranged, with varying patterns of wire. Pictures hung up high were usually tilted downward towards the viewer below, while lower frames were hung flat against the wall.
Art units began to dissolve with the introduction of electricity in the home. Suddenly, light was spread more evenly throughout a room, resulting in the individual orientation of artwork on a wall. Directing a light source on an independent piece became much easier. As the novelty of purchasing hundreds of different pictures wore off, homeowners graduated to exhibiting more self-control in the volume of pictures and trinkets displayed.
Through the 20’s picture molding was a stock item for millwork houses. However, with the Colonial Revival in architecture, ceilings lowered and “modern” decoration branded visible picture wires hopelessly Victorian. By the 1930’s, frames were hung on invisible wires and eventually on nails and hidden hangers.
Luckily a large number of original hangers still exist, preserved for your present-day interior design.
Hippo Hardware stocks a collection of original and reproduction picture hangers- available in every metal type and a variety of shapes and sizes to match your aesthetic. We also carry 11 colors of cord (60lb test) to add a professional, finished look to your frames. We are more than happy to assist you in coordinating the perfect combination for your home!
A composition made from blood, mixed with mineral or vegetable substances, used for making buttons, door knobs, jewelry etc.
With the growth of slaughtering and butchering trades in the 19th century, disposing of large quantities of blood became an issue. You literally couldn't give the stuff away! London butchers in Newport Market were banned from tipping blood into the sewers as it would attract rats. Luckily recycling was already a common practice: phosphorous matches were made from ground bones, tobacco ash was re-purposed into tooth-cleaner, and desiccated fish eyes were used for the buds on fake flowers- delightful!
These innovations were a catalyst for creative approaches to blood disposal, as a headline from the January 1892 issue of Manufacturer and Builder magazine suggests:
Door Knobs, etc., from Blood and Sawdust.
Invented by Dr W H Dibble of New Jersey, Hemacite is a material made from sawdust and the blood of slaughtered animals. Primarily from cattle and pig, the blood and sawdust, combined with 40 thousand pounds per square inch of hydraulic pressure and chemical compounds, transformed into surprisingly durable and beautiful everyday items.
This composition was pre-plastic, and ideal for everything from doorknobs to roller skate wheels to products such as buttons, cash register keys and even jewelry. The composition of Hemacite was touted as susceptible to a high polish, impervious to heat, moisture, atmospheric changes, and practically indestructible.
An article “to skate manufacturers and dealers” in the New York Times, on 11 October 1885, stated that “the superiority of our Hemacite Roller over boxwood is now well known.” The success of the campaign spawned other articles like a 21 February 1903 Times ad by the Siegel Cooper department store, promoting 75-cent roller skates with Hemacite wheels, a more expensive option than skates with “plain black wheels.” Strangely enough, these adds were often juxtaposed with plugs for products like Plasmon Cocoa Mix- “A blood-invigorating and muscle-making beverage of the highest order.” Plasmon’s active ingredient was Albumen, the organic binding agent behind Hemacite roller skate wheels. Clever marketing or a dark sense of humor?!
At the time of the Manufacturer and Builder article, Dibble Manufacturing Company had been producing Hemacite architectural details and door knobs for quite some time. Rather than having a separate knob and shaft to wear out, Dibble’s knobs were molded as one unbreakable piece, and came with a guarantee for the lifetime of the door.
Due to its consistency, Hemacite is easy to confuse with Bakelite. Even cheaper to produce, the popularity of plastics like Bakelite almost entirely replaced the production of Hemacite by the early to mid-1900’s. Ever strong and durable, these house fixtures and doorknobs live on today- you can spot several in our nationally registered museum case at Hippo Hardware, and on occasion we will get a few in for sale. Talk about a real “conversation piece” to adorn your home!